Why Gold Jewellery Tarnishes, and How to Choose a Necklace That Won't
Almost everyone has owned The Necklace. It looked beautiful in the box. A fortnight later it had gone patchy, the clasp had turned a strange brown, and there was a faint green line where it sat on your skin.
It's tempting to blame yourself: too much perfume, wearing it in the shower, forgetting to take it off at night. But most of the time the problem was decided long before it reached you, by what it was made of. Here's what's really going on, and how to choose a necklace that won't do it again.
Gold doesn't tarnish. Everything around it does.
Pure gold is one of the least reactive metals there is. It doesn't rust, it doesn't oxidise, and it doesn't react with your skin. That's why ancient gold jewellery still gleams after thousands of years underground.
So when a "gold" necklace tarnishes, the gold isn't the problem. The culprit is one of three things:
- The base metal underneath, once the gold layer wears through.
- Other metals mixed into the gold. Lower-carat gold contains more copper and silver, which can dull over time.
- A gold layer so thin it barely counts, which wears away almost immediately.
Where the green mark comes from
Most inexpensive jewellery is made from brass or another copper alloy with a thin wash of gold on top. Copper reacts with the salts and acids in sweat, and with moisture in the air, forming copper compounds that are, quite literally, green. Once the gold has rubbed thin, those compounds transfer onto your skin.
It isn't harmful, and it washes off. But it's a sure sign the base metal is now doing the talking, and the necklace won't recover.
Our seashell pendant. Stainless steel underneath means there's no copper waiting to turn green.
What actually wears the gold away
Water usually gets the blame, but it's rarely the real enemy. These are:
Friction
Every time a chain moves, its links rub against each other, and the clasp rubs against the back of your neck. That's why wear almost always shows first at the clasp and on the links behind your neck, not on the pendant. Rings, which knock against everything you touch, wear faster than necklaces for the same reason.
Chemicals
Perfume, hairspray, body lotion and sunscreen all contain alcohols, oils and other ingredients that can attack plating over time. Chlorine in swimming pools and hot tubs is particularly harsh.
Abrasion
Scrubbing with toothpaste or a stiff brush, or using jewellery cleaning dips designed for solid metals, can strip plating far faster than daily wear.
How to choose a necklace that lasts
When you're looking for tarnish-free necklaces, these are the things that genuinely make a difference.
1. A base metal that won't react
Stainless steel is the key. It doesn't rust or oxidise in everyday wear, so even if the gold at the clasp thins after years of use, what shows through is clean steel, not a dark or green stain.
2. A bonded finish, not a surface coat
PVD (physical vapour deposition) gold plating bonds to steel in a vacuum chamber. It's denser and holds on far better than conventional plating, which is why it's used on watches as well as jewellery.
3. Sensible construction
Look at the chain. Well-made links and a sturdy clasp mean less friction and less stress. If you love layered looks, a pre-layered necklace stops separate chains from rubbing and tangling against each other.
4. A clear description
"18K gold plated on stainless steel" tells you exactly what you're getting. "Gold tone" or "gold colour" tells you nothing, and usually means brass.
The three-tier layered necklace: three chains on one clasp, so they sit neatly and don't rub against each other.
Can you wear a gold plated necklace in the sea?
With PVD on stainless steel, yes, and we'd be a strange coastal brand if we said otherwise. Salt water itself won't harm the finish. Just give your necklace a rinse in fresh water afterwards, so dried salt and sand don't sit in the links.
Swimming pools are a different matter. Chlorine is harsher than seawater, so if you swim regularly in a pool, rinse your jewellery straight after, or take it off for long sessions.
A simple care routine
| Do | Avoid |
|---|---|
| Put your necklace on after perfume, lotion and hairspray | Spraying perfume directly onto the chain |
| Rinse in fresh water after the sea or a pool | Leaving it to dry with salt or chlorine on it |
| Pat dry and polish gently with a soft cloth | Toothpaste, scrubbing brushes or jewellery dips |
| Store each piece separately, ideally in a pouch | Throwing chains together in a dish to tangle |
Four necklaces built for everyday wear
If you're replacing The Necklace, here's where we'd start:
White imitation pearl pendant. A single imitation pearl on a fine chain. The kind of necklace you put on once and stop noticing, in the best way.
Chunky heart link necklace. Bold oversized links. Chunkier chains have fewer, sturdier links, so they're naturally hard-wearing.
Our seashell pendant and three-tier layered necklace complete the four. Every ORÈNE necklace is 18K gold plated on stainless steel, with free UK delivery on orders over £50 and 30 days to change your mind.
